Bamboo is a sustainable plant because it grows very quickly and easily, doesn’t need pesticides, fertilizers or additional water to grow. It doesn’t need to be replanted after harvest because it grows new sprouts from the roots. But to turn it into fibre it is processed with strong chemicals to extract the cellulose. These chemicals are potentially harmful to the health of manufacturing workers, the consumers wearing the garment and to the environment when chemicals are released in wastewater. The chemicals used include caustic soda and sulfuric acid.

Bamboo can be processed using a closed-loop production process to extract the cellulose which is made into bamboo fabric. The solvents used in the closed-loop rayon production can be reused again and again, which significantly reduces the environmental impact.

The highest quality bamboo fabric is produced with production that does not extract cellulose. The bamboo wood fibres are crushed and a natural enzyme is applied to them, then the fibres are washed and spun into yarn. This is a mechanical, rather than chemical, process which is not environmentally harmful, and produces a fabric which is strong, long-lasting and has a silky texture.

Batik is a dyeing technique that uses wax painted or stamped onto fabric to prevent absorption of dye. Intricate patterns are created through multiple cycles of wax application and dyeing.

This means offsetting the carbon emissions generated during the shipping process to achieve a net-zero carbon footprint. This is done by reducing emissions through fuel-efficient transport or supporting projects that reduce or remove carbon emissions from the atmosphere. Emissions can be reduced by using recycled or recyclable packing materials, reducing the amount of packaging, and avoiding single-use plastic.

Cotton is a natural fibre. Environmentally, most cotton is grown from genetically modified seeds with pesticides and insecticides, and it takes up to 20,000 litres of water to produce 1kg of cotton.

100% Vegan Organic Cotton

Non-genetically modified seeds grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilizers and the production process avoids animal products or testing.

Kala Cotton

Grown with rainwater only, rather than irrigation (which uses around 1,400 litres of irrigated water to cultivate one kilogram of cotton). It’s naturally resilient to pests and is grown without pesticides, manure or artificial fertilisers.

Organic Cotton

Cotton grown from non-genetically modified plants without using synthetic agricultural chemicals such as fertilizers and pesticides. Organic farmers use traditional farming methods to preserve the soil. Several organisations have established certifications for organic cotton, such as GOTS, as proof that the product is truly organic.

A plant-based fabric made from the tiny cotton fibres from cottonseed that are too small to process normally. Described as ‘smooth, breathable and cooling like silk’, but a vegan alternative.

Refers to leftover or overproduced fabric from other fashion houses or textile mills that would otherwise go unused. Designers repurpose it into limited-edition garments.

Using deadstock helps reduce textile waste and makes use of materials that would otherwise sit in storage or be thrown out.

Natural Dyes

Derived from plants, insects, minerals and organic matter they are suitable for natural fibres like cotton, wool, linen and silk. They are made from renewable resources, are biodegradable and non-toxic and the water used for dyeing and rinsing is safe for the environment. They do not require harmful chemicals to complete the dyeing procedure but the colour may fade or bleed over time due to exposure to sunlight or frequent washing.

Plant Based Dyes

Uses fruits, bark, flowers an leaves which are simmered in water to release the colours. Leftover natural dye materials can be composted and they are generally non-toxic.

Reactive Dyes

These dyes are made from chemical compounds, derived from petroleum, designed to react chemically with the fibres. They produce vibrant and durable colours in an unlimited range of colours but the processes have an environmental cost. The chemicals used in the dyeing process can be highly toxic, such as azo which has been linked to skin sensitivity through to cancer. Responsible manufacturers now minimise the environmental harm of these chemicals but ensuring proper management of the chemicals is crucial to mitigate potential ecological implications. Use of reactive dyes requires more water for multiple rinses and the waste water produced contains chemicals and is very harmful to the environment. Suitable for all fibres including blended fabrics. Produces colours that resist fading, even under challenging conditions, such as for sportswear and outdoor apparel.

These dyes are made from chemical compounds, derived from petroleum, designed to react chemically with the fibres. They produce vibrant and durable colours in an unlimited range of colours but the processes have an environmental cost. The chemicals used in the dyeing process can be highly toxic, such as azo which has been linked to skin sensitivity through to cancer. Responsible manufacturers now minimise the environmental harm of these chemicals but ensuring proper management of the chemicals is crucial to mitigate potential ecological implications. Use of reactive dyes requires more water for multiple rinses and the waste water produced contains chemicals and is very harmful to the environment. Suitable for all fibres including blended fabrics. Produces colours that resist fading, even under challenging conditions, such as for sportswear and outdoor apparel.

These dyes are made from chemical compounds, derived from petroleum, designed to react chemically with the fibres. They produce vibrant and durable colours in an unlimited range of colours but the processes have an environmental cost. The chemicals used in the dyeing process can be highly toxic, such as azo which has been linked to skin sensitivity through to cancer. Responsible manufacturers now minimise the environmental harm of these chemicals but ensuring proper management of the chemicals is crucial to mitigate potential ecological implications. Use of reactive dyes requires more water for multiple rinses and the waste water produced contains chemicals and is very harmful to the environment. Suitable for all fibres including blended fabrics. Produces colours that resist fading, even under challenging conditions, such as for sportswear and outdoor apparel.

Trade between companies in developed countries and producers in developing countries in which fair prices are paid to the producers.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) defines worldwide recognised requirements for organic textiles through a clear set of criteria. From the harvesting of the raw materials, environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing to labelling, this transparency gives consumers the power to choose truly organic products sourced from green supply chains.

Global Recycled Standard (GRS) is an international certification developed by Textile Exchange, a non-profit organisation focused on promoting sustainability in the textile industry. The certification is designed to boost the use of recycled materials and give brands and consumers a means to make informed buying decisions. A GRS-certified fabric is composed of at least 20% recycled matter, and at least 50% to have GRS labelling for consumers, and there are additional processing requirements (social, environmental and chemical) that must be met.

This is less common in modern, large-scale clothing manufacturing but is an important part of artisanal and historical clothing techniques, couture finishing and clothing repairs.

This is less common in modern, large-scale clothing manufacturing but is an important part of artisanal and historical clothing techniques, couture finishing and clothing repairs.

Grown from the hemp plant which is one of the fastest growing plants and doesn’t need much water, energy, pesticide or fertilizer. Hemp has similar properties to linen but as it belongs to the same family as cannabis, growing hemp is regulated or prohibited in many countries.

International Labour Organisation (ILO) Standards include the elimination of forced or compulsory labour, abolition of child labour, and elimination of discrimination in respect of employment and occupation.

Khadi means cloth woven on a handloom and spun into yarn on a spinning wheel. It can be made from cotton, silk or wool, or a mixture of them. It is a versatile fabric that is cool in summer and warm in winter. It has a low carbon footprint because it requires no energy for manufacturing and one metre of khadi fabric consumes 3 litres of water while while one metre of mill-produced fabric requires 55 litres.

Linen is made from the fibres of the flax plant. The best quality linen is made from hand-harvested flax because it is pulled from the ground with the roots attached resulting in a fabric that is finer and more supple than machine-harvested flax. Flax can grow in poor soil which is not used for food production and it uses much fewer resources (such as water, energy, pesticides, insecticides and fertilizers) than cotton.

Created by feeding multiple yarns, known as warp and weft, into the automated weaving machine or loom. Warp yarns run the length of the woven fabric, while weft yarns run across from side to side.

Mordants are used in the dyeing process to ‘fix’ or lock-in the colour to make it more durable and longer lasting. There are many different types of mordants including tannic acid (toxic), oxalic acid (toxic) and mineral salts. The most common mordant in natural dyeing is alum (potassium aluminium sulfate) which is non-toxic and generally considered the safest mineral mordant.

A synthetic fibre derived from petroleum which is energy intensive to produce, non-biodegradable, and releases microplastics into the environment. Other synthetic fibres include acrylic, polyamide, polypropylene, spandex (lycra or elastane), aramid, etc.

Recycled Nylon

It diverts waste from landfills and production uses fewer resources than virgin nylon including water, energy and fossil fuel). Much of the recycled nylon comes from old fishing nets, also from carpets, tights, etc.Much research is underway to further improve the quality and reduce the cost of the recycling process.

International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile and Leather Ecology consists of 17 independent textile and leather testing institutes in Europe and Japan, with offices in more than 70 countries. OEKO-TEX certification provides assurance of safety and environmental friendliness for textile products. They have a range of certifications and labels that provide guidance on purchasing decisions.

OEKO-TEX Cotton

Organic Cotton certified garments are verified from farm to product and have been manufactured without the use of genetically modified organisms (GMO) and tested for pesticides and other harmful substances such as azo colourants, PFAS, cadmium and lead.

OEKO-TEX Standard 100 

Standard 100 certified items have had every thread, button and accessory tested against a list of over 1,000 substances that are harmful to health and/or the environment to ensure they are harmless.

No pesticides or other toxic chemicals are used during the farming and processing stages.

Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification (PEFC) is a global alliance of national forest certification systems dedicated to promoting sustainable forest management through independent third-party certification.

Polyester is a synthetic fibre derived from petroleum which is a non-renewable fossil fuel. Production of polyester is highly energy intensive and it is a non-biodegradable product which releases microplastics into the environment. It is also inexpensive, versatile and durable which is why it has been widely used in the clothing industry.

Recycled Polyester

Recycled polyester (Rpet) is made from recycled plastic bottles. This is done either by mechanical recycling, where the plastic is melted to make a new yarn, but this can only be done a few times before the fibre loses its quality. The other option is by chemical recycling where the plastic molecules are broken down and reformed into yarn, and this can be recycled infinitely though it is more expensive. As it is recycled it is considered to be sustainable, but it is non-biodegradable and takes years to disappear once thrown away, and releases plastic microfibres.

Rayon is a semi-synthetic fabric, also known as viscose, made from wood pulp. To produce the fibre the plant cellulose goes through a process involving a lot of chemicals, energy and water. Solvents used during the process can be very toxic to humans and to the environment. It is popular in the clothing industry because it can mimic the properties of silk, cotton and wool. The other environmental concern is that thousands of hectares of rainforest are cut down each year to plant trees specifically used to make rayon, while only a very small percentage of the wood is obtained through sustainable forestry practices.

Sustainable Rayon (Lyocell/Tencel)
Lyocell is a manufacturing process of rayon which is more eco-friendly. Made from wood pulp from sustainably farmed trees, it is considered a semi-synthetic or regenerated cellulose fibre as it undergoes a chemical process to be transformed into fabric. The fabric is 100% biodegradable. It is made in a closed-loop system that recycles almost all of the chemicals used. It is described as ‘soft as silk, warm as wool and cool as linen’. Tencel is the brand name and is made from eucalyptus trees from PEFC certified forests. Eucalyptus trees grow quickly without the use of pesticides, fertilizers or irrigation. 

Sustainable Rayon (Modal)

Modal is a type of rayon made using beech trees. It is considered to be a semi-synthetic fabric because while the raw material, cellulose from beech trees, is natural, the fibre is created through a chemical process. The company Lenzing makes Lenzing Modal using trees from sustainably harvested forests and employs an eco-friendly bleaching method.

Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) is an international certification developed by Textile Exchange, a non-profit organisation focused on promoting sustainability in the textile industry. The unified standard is currently being revised and updated for release in 2025.

Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) is a certification for wool farmers and sellers that aims to improve the welfare of sheep and the land they graze on.

A long, rectangular piece of unstitched fabric (3.5 to 8 metres long) which is draped gracefully around the body in various styles. Fabrics include silk, cotton,chiffon, georgette, crepe and synthetic blends and designs range from simple, solid coloured patterns to intricate embroidery and other embellishments.

Pre-treating fabric to remove impurities such as oils, waxes and dirt so that dye will bond to it.

Silk is a fibre produced by silkworms making their cocoons. Roughly 1km of thread (1,000 yards) can be unwound from each cocoon which is then processed, dyed and woven into fabric. Silk fabric is highly valued for its strength, elasticity and moisture absorbency.

Vegan Silk

This is a plant-based alternative to traditional silk, often made from Tencel (Lyocell) which is derived from sustainably harvested wood pulp. Other vegan silk alternatives include banana fibre and hemp.

Production of small quantities at a time to avoid oversupply and wastage such as dead stock.

They are sourced from renewable resources such as plants, reused through recycling, and safely decompose at the end of their life without harming the environment.

This emphasises the use of environmentally friendly materials, such as organic cotton, recycled fibres, hemp and biodegradable fabrics. These materials reduce the environmental impact by using fewer chemicals, water and energy during production.

Synthetic fibres are derived from petroleum which is energy intensive to produce, non-biodegradable, and releases microplastics into the environment. Synthetic fibres include nylon, acrylic, polyester, polyamide, polypropylene, spandex (lycra or elastane), aramid, etc

In clothing production this focuses on purposefully re-integrating fabric offcuts to minimise waste.

Eco/Sustainable Viscose

Made from wood pulp, the chemicals used in the production process are reused and recycled, with 50% less water and energy consumption than regular viscose, plus the bleaching process doesn’t use any chlorine. The fabric is described as ‘soft and luxurious’.

Viscose/Artificial Silk

This is the most common type of rayon. Conventional viscose production involves a lot of chemicals which are harmful to the environment.

Wool is a renewable natural fibre. Environmental considerations include whether the grazing land is overgrazed, leading to erosion, and use of insecticides that may be hazardous to farmers.